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“A huge thing for this record was to make it feel as close to our live show as possible,” says Tom Sharkett of W.H. Lung’s latest album. “We didn’t want it to sound live but we wanted to capture the excitement of the live performances.”

This is something that has become paramount to the group in recent years as they have undeniably blossomed into one of the most joyous and arresting live bands in the country. “The reason I’m in a band is to play live music,” says singer Joe Evans. “For me, music is live music. That’s what it’s for, to be played with people.”

The five-piece band, also featuring Chris Mulligan, Hannah Peace, and Alex Mercer-Main, decided to try something new on their third album after two incredibly successful collaborations with previous producer Matt Peel. In order to capture the energy, spirit and dynamism of their live shows, they relocated to Sheffield to work with Ross Orton (MIA, Arctic Monkeys, Working Men’s Club) who was able to harness this side of the band to remarkable effect. “Ross is the Sheffield Steve Albini,” says Evans. “He’s the king of not overthinking it and trusting the process of the art of recording songs. He was always there to stop us fucking around with cerebral stuff and get it down.” Sharkett echoes this too: “He was the exact producer we needed without us even realising. His productions and mixes are bombastic, lively and in your face and that’s exactly what we wanted.”

However, while this album is rooted in a sense of capturing a moment and a sparky liveness, that’s not to say it’s a raw or ragged record. It is still a meticulously composed, delicately layered and pristinely produced piece of work that, in true W.H. Lung style, runs the gauntlet from dance to pop to indie while still capturing that distinctly unique quality that is unquestionably their own. “It was a really big thing for me to realise what made us sound like us on this record,” says Sharkett. “I think the album sounds a lot more confident and self assured because of it. Some songs sound just so much like Lung and I’m really proud of that. I’m not sure we’ve done that as consistently across the other records.”

While the band have drilled deeper into finding their own singular identity, it’s not a record resting on its laurels. It’s a significant leap forward, expanding on their solid foundations while also breaking new ground. “The big difference with this record is its directness in every sense,” says Sharkett. “The songwriting is more upfront. Previously we’d focused a lot on vibe and production as opposed to just writing songs. The overall mission here was to revert to a classic songwriting structure and for the production to come afterwards.” And so what you have on this record are deeply considered and well-crafted songs, then recorded with blistering intensity in the moment, and then given a touch of experimentation afterwards. Then throw in Orton’s contributions to the band and it’s proven to be a real winning formula. “He brought a real dose of magic to the songs we’d written,” says Sharkett. “And brought an extra bit of wonk and quirkiness each time.”

The band’s ability to write more traditional and conventional songs is clearly a skill they’ve taken to with ease, at times there’s an almost Springsteen-like quality – but if he'd ever had an ecstasy period – to tracks such as ‘Thinner Wine’ and ‘Bloom and Fade’. While ‘How to Walk’ was constructed with one thing only in mind: that it would absolutely slay on stage. “I can’t wait to play this live,” says Evans. “We wanted a song to represent our live set, a new big one, and this is it.” Once again it leans towards the anthemic, with its driving, propulsive charge complete with incandescent synths and vocal melodies so irresistible you can already hear them being sung in unison by a crowd.

It’s an incredibly difficult feat to pull off a record that is more rooted in traditional songcraft while also capturing the power of a live performance, as well as pushing sonics into experimental new directions while working with a brand new collaborator. But here the band has managed to do just that. And the album’s closing song ‘I Will Set Fire To The House’ is a perfect example of such a thing. It’s a song that feels immaculately constructed but also very much alive and of the moment as its radiating synths engulf from the off, and Evans’ vocal is silky but powerful and in perfect symbiosis with Peace’s. It’s a song that captures the endless joys of music playing long into the night. “It may be a bit of a bloody bombastic way to end an album saying ‘and we’ll dance into the sunrise’,” says Evans. “But fuck it.”

MORE PRESS ON ‘VANITIES’ (MELO131)

"Vanities artily refines an exhilarating brand of up-front electro-dance" MOJO ⅘

'Idiosyncratic yet euphoric electronic pop on triumphant second LP' 9/10 Uncut

''One of the most effective alternative pop albums of the year'' 4/5 Record Collector
'Dance music for the modern age' - The Times (4*)

ANTON NEWCOMBE and DOT ALLISON just announcedthat they will be releasing an album together under the moniker All Seeing Dolls. ''Parallel' will be out in February 2025. Upfront they share the single 'That's Amazing Grace' (backed with "Siren's Echo iron Lung") and make available this 2-track 10" as a limited teaser. Anton Newcombe is the founder, the sole constant and the creative mastermind at the centre of one of music's most fascinating bands; Brian Jonestown Massacre. He's a frontman, songwriter, composer, studio owner, multi-instrumentalist, producer, engineer, father and force of nature. There have been 21 BJM albums over the last 30 years, each embarking on their own mind-expanding adventure and exploring the outer realms of rock'n'roll; psychedelic rock, country-blues, snarling rock'n'roll, blissed-out noise-pop and more. Newcombe has established himself as a once-in-a-lifetime talent, a revolutionary force in modern music and an underground hero. Dot Allison released her debut solo album Afterglow in 1999. Over the years she has strived to keep the listener on a journey - and herself too. She revolts against what she has done before, to evolve and not just occupy the same space. That journey has taken her from Afterglow's broad church (trip-hop, Tim Buckley-esque ballads, dance tracks, chilled psychedelia) to the sultry synth-pop of We Are Science (2002), the lush, baroque Exaltation Of Larks (2007) and the eclectic, rootsy drama of Room 7½ (2009). After a hiatus to raise her family she returned with the graceful acoustic folk record Heart-Shaped Scars (2021) and the haunting, barely there beauty of Consciousology (2023). The range of guest stars on Allison's records is equally broad: where else would you find a cast list that includes Kevin Shields, Hal David, Paul Weller, Pete Doherty and Darren Emerson. Likewise, Allison's own guest roles with the likes of Massive Attack, Scott Walker, Slam, Philip Shepard, The Babyshambles & Pete Doherty, underlining the huge respect her peers hold her in.

Die unverbesserlichen Headbanger von LEATHER LUNG lassen die Party steigen! Der Fünfer aus Boston, Massachusetts hat das Flehen seiner enthusiastischen Fangemeinde nach einer vollen Dröhnung Boogie Metal erhört und legt mit "Graveyard Grin" endlich das Debütalbum vor. Die Neuengländer halten mit diesem Kracher aus Stoner Metal, Doom, einer Prise Sludge und einem eingängigen Kick die großen Versprechen, die ihre bisherigen EPs abgegeben haben: Angefangen mit "Reap What You Sow" (2014) und gefolgt von "Lost in Temptation" (2016), "Lonesome, On'ry and Evil" (2019) und "Dive Bar Devil" (2022) haben sich LEATHER LUNG bereits in die Herzen ihrer wachsenden Anhängerschar gespielt. Der wilde Haufen von langjährigen Freunden formierte sich in der Bostoner Punk- und Hardcore-Szene aus reinem Spaß an Doom und Stoner Metal. Anfangs als Vierer unterwegs erspielten sich LEATHER LUNG schnell einen exzellenten Ruf in der lokalen Szene und bald darauf quer durch die USA, zum Beispiel beim DesertFest New York und dem Psycho Las Vegas, sowie über ihre Veröffentlichungen sukzessive auch in Europa. Aufgebrezelt mit einem zweiten Gitarristen sind LEATHER LUNG inzwischen zu fünft und bereit, die Welt mit "Graveside Grin" zu erobern. Die Freaks von der Ostküste können es kaum erwarten, endlich wieder auf die Straße zu kommen, um erstmals eine globale Party zu feiern.

Die unverbesserlichen Headbanger von LEATHER LUNG lassen die Party steigen! Der Fünfer aus Boston, Massachusetts hat das Flehen seiner enthusiastischen Fangemeinde nach einer vollen Dröhnung Boogie Metal erhört und legt mit "Graveyard Grin" endlich das Debütalbum vor. Die Neuengländer halten mit diesem Kracher aus Stoner Metal, Doom, einer Prise Sludge und einem eingängigen Kick die großen Versprechen, die ihre bisherigen EPs abgegeben haben: Angefangen mit "Reap What You Sow" (2014) und gefolgt von "Lost in Temptation" (2016), "Lonesome, On'ry and Evil" (2019) und "Dive Bar Devil" (2022) haben sich LEATHER LUNG bereits in die Herzen ihrer wachsenden Anhängerschar gespielt. Der wilde Haufen von langjährigen Freunden formierte sich in der Bostoner Punk- und Hardcore-Szene aus reinem Spaß an Doom und Stoner Metal. Anfangs als Vierer unterwegs erspielten sich LEATHER LUNG schnell einen exzellenten Ruf in der lokalen Szene und bald darauf quer durch die USA, zum Beispiel beim DesertFest New York und dem Psycho Las Vegas, sowie über ihre Veröffentlichungen sukzessive auch in Europa. Aufgebrezelt mit einem zweiten Gitarristen sind LEATHER LUNG inzwischen zu fünft und bereit, die Welt mit "Graveside Grin" zu erobern. Die Freaks von der Ostküste können es kaum erwarten, endlich wieder auf die Straße zu kommen, um erstmals eine globale Party zu feiern.

After glowing reviews of Dreaming Forever 001 and club plays from Ben UFO, Skatebard, Michael Mayer and many more, we are very proud to announce 002.
 
 Berlin based DJ Marie Lung is a regular performer at some of the best venues in the house and techno capital. After discovering Marie Lung’s set on HÖR and being blown away by her performances on the channel consistently, we contacted the artist to see if she had any demo tracks for us.
 
 The resulting tracks were two timeless and evocative house records that we play constantly in the Dreaming Forever offices. A spaced out remix from the inimitable Vril and a super classy rework from Matthias Reiling, one half of Session Victim, makes up the release.
 
 We are proud to release Marie’s inaugural record.

GREEN LUNG sind eine Kultband im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes. Gegründet 2017 in London, brachten ihre ersten beiden Alben "Woodland Rites" (2019) und "Black Harvest" (2021) eine Folk-Horror-Sensibilität in den Okkult-Rock, die eine fanatische Fangemeinde in ihrer Heimat Großbritannien und darüber hinaus anlockte und zu internationalen Tourneen mit Größen wie Clutch, Festivalauftritten von Roadburn über Bloodstock bis Download und einem Plattenvertrag mit dem weltweit größten unabhängigen Heavy-Metal-Label Nuclear Blast Records führte.

Auf "This Heathen Land" hat die Band einen Sound und eine Identität geschaffen, die ganz und gar ihre eigene ist, während sie die sabbatianische Härte und die fesselnde Songkunst beibehalten hat, die ihre früheren Alben im Metal-Underground so beliebt gemacht haben. Von der Covergrafik über die Vinylbeilagen bis hin zu den lyrischen Themen ist "This Heathen Land" ein sorgfältig recherchierter und ausgeführter Liebesbrief des Heavy Metal an die folkloristische Landschaft Großbritanniens.

"This Heathen Land" ist der Sound, den GREEN LUNG auf ihren beiden Vorgängeralben geschmiedet haben und der hier zu seinem logischen Abschluss gebracht wurde. Das spiegelt sich auch im Songwriting wider, denn das Album bietet ihre abwechslungsreichste Sammlung von Songs.

GREEN LUNG sind eine Kultband im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes. Gegründet 2017 in London, brachten ihre ersten beiden Alben "Woodland Rites" (2019) und "Black Harvest" (2021) eine Folk-Horror-Sensibilität in den Okkult-Rock, die eine fanatische Fangemeinde in ihrer Heimat Großbritannien und darüber hinaus anlockte und zu internationalen Tourneen mit Größen wie Clutch, Festivalauftritten von Roadburn über Bloodstock bis Download und einem Plattenvertrag mit dem weltweit größten unabhängigen Heavy-Metal-Label Nuclear Blast Records führte.

Auf "This Heathen Land" hat die Band einen Sound und eine Identität geschaffen, die ganz und gar ihre eigene ist, während sie die sabbatianische Härte und die fesselnde Songkunst beibehalten hat, die ihre früheren Alben im Metal-Underground so beliebt gemacht haben. Von der Covergrafik über die Vinylbeilagen bis hin zu den lyrischen Themen ist "This Heathen Land" ein sorgfältig recherchierter und ausgeführter Liebesbrief des Heavy Metal an die folkloristische Landschaft Großbritanniens.

"This Heathen Land" ist der Sound, den GREEN LUNG auf ihren beiden Vorgängeralben geschmiedet haben und der hier zu seinem logischen Abschluss gebracht wurde. Das spiegelt sich auch im Songwriting wider, denn das Album bietet ihre abwechslungsreichste Sammlung von Songs.

White Lung are back! This winter brings their fifth and final,
chaotic, bold and hook-driven album, ‘Premonition’. It’s a
whirlwind of driving drums, intricate guitar work, and noholds-barred lyrics about motherhood, pregnancy, and
growth. The themes are deeper. The interplay between
guitarist Kenneth William and drummer Anne-Marie
Vassiliou is more complex, the sound more cohesive.
During an unintentional five year hiatus, White Lung
managed to grow up without settling down, and the trio
has emerged out of its transformative period with raw, feral
energy.
When the members convened in their hometown of
Vancouver in 2017 to begin work with long-time producer
Jesse Gander on their fifth album, they had no idea what
kind of changes were in store for them. Frontwoman Mish
Barber-Way was in the studio preparing to record vocals -
when she realized she was pregnant with her first child. A
pandemic followed, then another baby, then the series of
massive societal meltdowns that we’ve all come to call
“everything that’s been going on.”
‘Premonition’ is about birth and rebirth. It’s about leaving
behind nihilism while refusing to give up the freedom that it
offers. It’s about raging against the world while still finding
space within it for hope and love.
CD into printed inner wallet into outer wallet and 8-page
folded poster booklet.
LP includes 24” x 36” poster.
Press - Reviews in MOJO, Loud & Quiet, Uncut. Features in
Stereoboard, Upset, NME, DIY, The Line of Best Fit, Our Culture,
CMU, Yahoo, The Guardian, Pitchfork, Rolling Stone, The FADER,
SPIN, Stereogum, Consequence, Brooklyn Vegan, Alt Press,
Exclaim!, Treblezine, Femmusic, Ultimate Guitar, Broadway World,
Northern Transmissions.
Radio - BBC 6 Music.

In four short years of existence, Green Lung have risen from the murk of the UK heavy underground to become a true cult band with a devoted following. Debut album Woodland Rites, released independently in early 2019, quickly garnered attention, resulting in a single being named ‘Track of the Week’ in the Guardian, plays on Daniel P. Carter’s Radio One Rock Show, a tour with fellow UK heavies Puppy and festival appearances across Europe. This brought the band to the attention of the wider music industry, and after multiple offers (including one from a major label) the band decided to stay true to their roots and sign with the Finnish audio wizards at Svart Records, home to several of their doomy inspirations including Reverend Bizarre and Warning. Svart’s deluxe reissue of the album, and the preceding EP Free the Witch,sold out several runs. Two years later, the folk horror-obsessed fivesome have re-emerged from their mulchy catacombs armed with dozens of freshly-whittled riffs. Black Harvest, the sequel to Woodland Rites, is a more colourful, widescreen reimagining of the band’s sound - Dawn of the Dead to its predecessor’s Night of the Living. Recorded at Giant Wafer Studios in rural mid-Wales over the course of two weeks with longtime producer Wayne Adams (Petbrick, Big Lad), it’s a more expansive and textured record than anything the band have done before, boasting a cinematic quality and more attention to detail.

In four short years of existence, Green Lung have risen from the murk of the UK heavy underground to become a true cult band with a devoted following. Debut album Woodland Rites, released independently in early 2019, quickly garnered attention, resulting in a single being named ‘Track of the Week’ in the Guardian, plays on Daniel P. Carter’s Radio One Rock Show, a tour with fellow UK heavies Puppy and festival appearances across Europe. This brought the band to the attention of the wider music industry, and after multiple offers (including one from a major label) the band decided to stay true to their roots and sign with the Finnish audio wizards at Svart Records, home to several of their doomy inspirations including Reverend Bizarre and Warning. Svart’s deluxe reissue of the album, and the preceding EP Free the Witch,sold out several runs. Two years later, the folk horror-obsessed fivesome have re-emerged from their mulchy catacombs armed with dozens of freshly-whittled riffs. Black Harvest, the sequel to Woodland Rites, is a more colourful, widescreen reimagining of the band’s sound - Dawn of the Dead to its predecessor’s Night of the Living. Recorded at Giant Wafer Studios in rural mid-Wales over the course of two weeks with longtime producer Wayne Adams (Petbrick, Big Lad), it’s a more expansive and textured record than anything the band have done before, boasting a cinematic quality and more attention to detail.

‘Miracle’ is the new album from Manchester singer songwriter Francis Lung,
released on Memphis Industries.
“For me, ‘Miracle’ is about the struggle between my self-destructive side and my
problem-solving, constructive side,” says Francis. “I suppose through a lot of
these songs I’m dealing with these emotional problems, acknowledging the
negative aspects of my behaviour instead of burying them, and providing an
alternative point of view for myself.”
Despite its serious subject matter, ‘Miracle’ is far from austere in sound, marrying
the cinematic, dreamlike quality of Francis’s earlier music with the pared-back
charm of great singer-songwriters like Judee Sill, Jeff Tweedy and Elliott Smith.
The album opens with ‘Bad Hair Day’, a relentlessly catchy - and deceptively
upbeat - ode to hangovers and missed connections. “I’ve been calling on you all
night / But I never get through, I just get in the way” Francis laments; “I am a
cloud in the sun’s light / Whatever I do, whatever I say.”
Elsewhere, the title track finds him pondering the fickle nature of the music
industry: “I think of [‘Miracle’] as acknowledging and even encouraging the
feelings we’re not supposed to succumb to - giving up, giving in - just because it
can be comforting to hear it from someone else. ‘Why am I climbing these social
ladders and jumping through the hoops of this creative industry? Does this make
me happy?’”
These themes of longing and lacking, missing and being missed, reoccur
throughout ‘Miracle. “When I die / Will I be missed / Or am I missing the point?”
asks ‘Say So’; while ‘Lonesome No More’, inspired by the Kurt Vonnegut book of
the same name, begs the question: if loneliness was eradicated, would we miss
it?
By confronting these feelings, Francis is able to move forward, as triumphant
album closer ‘The Let Down’ proves. Its lyrics serve as a call to action, as
Francis wills himself (and the listener) to “Get up / Get something going / Do
something, do it / Do it now.”
‘Miracle’ was produced by Francis in collaboration with Brendan Williams (Dutch
Uncles, Matthew Halsall, Kiran Leonard) and Robin Koob (who co-arranged and
performed strings). The opportunity to take creative control was one Francis
relished. “I’m quite bad at delegating,” he admits, noting that he played every
instrument except strings on ‘Miracle’. The result is a cohesive, deeply personal
record, which is as vital as it is vulnerable. “I don’t want to be defined by my
anxiety, my depression or any history of substance abuse,” Francis says, “but I
do want to reach out to other people who have had similar experiences,
especially if it’s in a way that helps them feel a little better. To me, this music is
celebrating healing as much as it focuses on the darker sides of the human
psyche.”

The third and final release from Halocline Trance for the calendar year is Perfect Lung, a collaborative album from Istanbul-based composer Ipek Gorgun and Ceramic TL aka David Psutka (Egyptrixx, Anamai, Limit). A decadent yet durable offering of material sound, recorded remotely during 2016 + 2017 in Toronto, Ankara and Istanbul. Seven songs of original, accidental music that span colour and feeling; the petroleum psychedelia of Ceramic TL framed by Gorgun's precise and emotional landscapes. Inhaling/exhaling full register slabs hint at the multi-dimensionality of optimism and voicelessness...multiple things in multiple ways. Chill melodies plod then dissolve entirely like a casual toil. Whatever you like. All creative output is eco-political in nature but this record avoids directive and cliche. Moments of clarity glint through piles of junk; total quantity mimics eruptions of precious material - an unrealistic examination of the concept of material value as defined by its relative scarcity...this album is a lot. A fixation with excess contrasts the corporeal impermanence of humans with the material half-life of their consumer existence. Our legacy is trash - stray objects inside the perfect lung.

Released in 2016, It’s Immaterial found Black Marble refining its coldwave and synth-pop foundations into a warmer, more melodic expression of isolation, longing, and quiet resilience. Guided by Chris Stewart’s unmistakable baritone and a palette of analog synths, pulsing basslines, and minimalist rhythms, the album feels simultaneously nostalgic and forward-leaning. Its songs drift between shadowy introspection and subtle hope, creating a cinematic atmosphere that’s both intimate and hypnotic.
With It’s Immaterial, Black Marble deepened its signature sound, offering a collection that resonates like a faded memory—soft, hazy, and endlessly replayable.

"Melodies twist inward and out of the comfort zone, but never overstep their boundaries or demand extra attention they don’t deserve. The fragments that have been found, from beginning to end, click and fall into place almost effortlessly. It’s surprising how nothing feels forced." - Drowned in Sound

White Shadows In The South Seas is the title of a book written in 1919 by Frederick O'Brien as part of a trilogy he wrote based on his experiences living in the Pacific islands in the early part of the 20th century. His book was taken as the starting point for a film to be directed, initially, by Robert Flaherty (famous at the time for his groundbreaking documentary / fiction film Nanook Of The North) with W.S.Van Dyke as his support. The film, ultimately, apart from the title, had little to do with O'Brien's book and Flaherty left the film after a few months leaving Van Dyke to finish it.

I purchased O'Brien's book, along with many others, from Basement Books, a secondhand bookstore in Melbourne/Australia. Part of my 'Islomania' and on going fascination with all things Pacific. When I discovered there was a 1929 silent film based on the book I sought it out and started to present it as part of my 'Live Music/Silent films' repertoire. Tabu by Frederick Murnau, which coincidently also had Flaherty as co-director originally, was the first film I ever wrote / improvised a score for and presented as a live film/music performance. My repertoire extends to over 23 films now.

My eclectic and diverse musical and artistic interests extend into 'Hawaiian', 'Exotica', 'Ambient' and 'Electronic' Music. I have produced several volumes of so called 'Electronic, Ambient, Exotica' on CD and Vinyl, including Kiribati, Globe Notes, Rayon Hula ( on Vinyl, CD and digital format ) and most recently, New Globe Note on Vinyl and White Shadows In The South Seas on CD.
White Shadows In The South Seas features some of the music presented in my live screenings of the 1929 silent film.

The film is the story of Dr. Matthew Lloyd, an alcoholic doctor who is disgusted by the exploitation by white people of the natives on a Polynesian island. The natives dive for pearls, however, numerous accidents occur and one diver dies. In anger, Dr. Lloyd punches Sebastian, the employer. As revenge and to prevent further interruption of his activities, he tricks Dr. Lloyd onto a ship with a diseased crew (thinking they are ill) and his men rough him up and send the ship off into a storm. Dr. Lloyd survives and is washed ashore on an island where none of the natives have ever seen a white man before. Lloyd is rescued and ultimately falls in love with the chief's daughter, who is Taboo, hence Lloyd is prevented from pursuing his love for her. An incident occurs and a young boy is thought to have drowned but Lloyd is able to revive him, earning him points and permission with the chief's daughter. Lloyd begins to realise that the local islanders have no sense of the value of the black pearls which grow in abundance around their island and he starts to dive for them and collect them. One morning the white man Sebastian unexpectedly turns up on a scooner and starts to offer the islanders trade for their pearls. Llloyd tries to interrupt the encounter and is shot and dies. His wife and the islanders morn for his dead body and, symbolically, the passing of a way of life.

Mike Cooper plays - Electric and acoustic lap steel guitars / electronics / Zoom Sampletrack / Kaos Pad / Casio SK1 / Korg Drum Machine / Self Made Instruments.

It also features field recordings made on Pulau Ubin by Mike Cooper during a month as Artist In Residence for The Artist Village / Singapore.

I would like to acknowledge and thank Lawrence English (Room40 Records) for his assistance and encouragement with the original recordings and the CD version of White Shadows In The South Seas.

All music written and played by Mike Cooper PRS/MCPS - except Po Mahina (trad. Arr. Cooper) and Hilo Hanakahi (trad. Arr. Cooper)

Recorded and Mixed at the Steelworks in Rome 2012/2013.

A White Shadow In The South Seas
In February 2014 'A White Shadow In The South Seas' was the title of an audio-visual installation I made at the Teatro In Scatola in Rome, Italy, presented as part of a series of sound installations titled 'Visitazioni' produced by Proposte Sonore.

The essay below, as well as our collection of Hawaiian shirts, Exotica and Hawaiian vinyl records, was an inspiration for this installation.

'..the transformation and reconstitution of the souvenir commodity as an indigenous ethnic art form and a scarce relic of Hawai'i's romanticized past...' from - Clothing and Textile Reasearch Journal - From Kitsch to Chic by Marcia A. Morgado.

And....
Michael Thompson's Rubbish Theory (1979)
' ...a critical aspect of Western culture is the pre-disposition to see objects in terms of two overt categories: the transient and the durable. Objects identified as transient have finite life spans and lose value over time, whereas those identified as durable have infinite lives and over time increae in value....category assignments are arbitrary, but once assigned a category membership determines relative value. Fashion apparel-by defenition-is assigned to the transient category; paintings commonly are designated durables....how is it that transient objects.. ( e.g. Hawaiian shirts and vinyl records ) ..sometimes become durables.

Objects assigned to the rubbish category are largely invisible, have no value and, ideally, no life span. Fashion for example, no longer worn and relegated to the back of the wardrobe has fallen into the covert rubbish category. But rubbish can be rescued and transformed. Thompson says ' What I believe happens is a transient object gradually declining in value and in expected life span may slide across into rubbish. Here it exists in a timeless and valueless limbo where it has a chance to be re-discovered and be successfully transformed to a durable. Such transferes are radical: objects gradually slide from transcience to rubbish, but the transformation from rubbish to durable involves an all-or-nothing leap across two boundaries, that separating the worthless from the valuable and that between the covert and the overt. Things drift into obscurity but they leap into prominence.

The delightful consequence of this hypothesis is that in order to study the social control of value we must study rubbish.

The rubbish-to-durable transformation is accompanied by the development of highly specialized knowledge derived from the discovery of subtle variations and complex details that went unnoticed in the objects transient stage. The discoveries initiate renewed interest in the object and its market value begins to climb. As prices soar beyond the reach of ordinary people, the object becomes available only in high priced collectors' markets. Furthermore, as market values rise, the aesthetic value of the object undergoes a reassessment as well, and it becomes increasingly apparent that the objects intrinsic beauty has been overlooked. Ultimately the object is re -assigned as a durable and becomes recognized as a timeless classic.

Exotica, Ambience and Pacificism - A dialogue with Mike Cooper & Professor Philip Hayward Deputy Pro Vice Chancellor of Research Southern Cross University, Lismore, Australia.